Puppy Zone

The Newfoundland is a massive, strong, docile, gentle dog. Nothing is more fun than to be owned by one. As a guardian, companion, or working dog, he displays those qualities that make him loved the world over.

The Newfoundland’s impressive size, intelligence, and gentle disposition make him an excellent guardian for children. He is particularly happy in this role, for it satisfies his unlimited capacity for devoted companionship. His size and amiability render him immune to the unintended roughness of small children. Babies tumble over and about him secure in the knowledge that no snap or growl will mar their play. When he becomes tired, he simply moves away, though his watchful eyes remain alert to their safety. Should danger threaten - a busy highway, a deep pool, or a suspicious stranger - he is there, shielding his charges with his great strength, nudging them to safety. Gentle though he is, such is his size that few strangers would dare to challenge his devotion.

That most famous of nursemaids, Nana, in Peter Pan, exemplified the true characteristics of her breed as she waited patiently through the long days for the Darling children to return. They complained, as all children do, that she was much too strict, and yet how happy they were to be back again under her loving care.

From the moment a new puppy enters the home, he should learn to wear a small leather collar. One with bells will help you keep track of his whereabouts. As soon as he becomes used to it (this will take two or three days), attach a light lead and let him drag it about. This helps reduce any wildness or fear many young pups show when first on a lead. After a few days, pick up one end of the lead and hold it loosely while you walk around the yard or home. Don’t try to pull or direct the dog; all you want to do now is to acquaint him with this limited check on his freedom. The secret here, as in all training, is to remember to talk to him. At first he may be confused about his role. If he strains at the lead or chews on it, correct him by saying No. If he persists, accompany No with a quick jerk on the lead. As soon as he understands what you expect, he’ll try to comply, because dogs, like children, basically want to please you. When he is good, let him know by scratching his ears and praising him.

Learning to Sit

Next, your dog must learn to sit at your command. Again, this is a puppy exercise, so have patience with him. Stand stationary, holding the lead in one hand. As you say Sit, press down on his hindquarters with the other hand. If the dog lies down instead, grasp the loose skin at his neck and pull up until he is sitting (this won’t hurt him). Repeat the command Sit. Since you have now added another word to his vocabulary, don’t confuse the puppy by varying the command, and don’t weaken it by also using his name. Praise him as soon as he sits. By the time your pup is three months old, he should have mastered this exercise. Now he will be ready to learn the more advanced lessons that follow.

Sit-Stay Command
The most important exercise you can teach your dog is to sit and stay on command. Once he learns this, you can leave him anywhere and know he will be there when you return. Wait until he is at least three months old before beginning the sit-stay. Your puppy should now recognize his name, be familiar with the lead and respond to the simple command Sit.

Use a longer lead (6 to 8 feet) than normal so that you and the dog can move freely. Holding the slack loosely in the right hand, walk the dog briefly, then bring him in as close to your left foot as possible. Give the command Sit. As soon as he sits, reward him by stroking his head (don’t pat, few dogs appreciate being thumped on the head).

Now shift the lead to the other hand and swing forward in a half-circle so that you are facing the dog. Give the command Stay. At the same time bring your right hand, fingers together, palm forward, to the dog’s nose to block his moving ahead. Keep all motions smooth. If your pup drops his head, repeat Stay and tap him lightly under his chin. Follow by again bringing your hand to his nose.

Avoid excessive correction by anticipating your dog’s errors and rewarding him before he has time to commit them. In this way he will associate pleasure with doing what you want. Repeat several times, then let the pup romp briefly before undertaking the remainder of the exercise.
Intermediate. Once your dog has mastered the preliminaries, he must learn to remain in the stay position even when you are not present. Repeat the initial exercise. Then, with the lead in your left hand, straighten to a standing position and walk slowly around the dog. If he stands too, start again. Help him by repeating the command Stay, being careful not to confuse him by jerking or pulling on the lead.

It is important to see a reputable breeder or pet shop once you have decided to own a Malamute. A clean kennel with proper facilities will usually mean healthy, well-nourished puppies.

If the Malamute is to be a pet, it is advisable to purchase a puppy of two to four months of age. As the puppy grows, an important bond is established between you and the dog. You act as a prime influence in its development and consequently determine the kind of adult animal it will be.

The A.K.C., upon request, will send you a list of Malamute breeders in your area. Do not under any circumstances purchase a puppy from a breeder who docs not allow you ownership, on approval, for at least twenty-four hours, so the puppy may be examined by a veterinarian. Any reliable kennel will grant you this consideration.

A dog’s normal temperature is approximately 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Though excitement may raise this to a somewhat higher level, do not select a puppy whose temperature is more than 102 degrees. Other signs of ill health are coughing, diarrhea, mucous discharge from the eyes or nose, and skin rashes.

In general, pick an alert puppy rather than a cowering, timid, or listless one.

For show-dog considerations, choose the puppy that is neither the largest nor the smallest of the litter.

Puppies of any breed are cute and irresistible, but puppies don’t stay tiny and helpless for long. The full-grown Irish Setter stands about 2 feet tall, weighs up to about 75 pounds and requires about 1 1/2 pounds of food a day. Irish Setters are more active than the other Setters and need plenty of exercise. With exceptional care they can be kept in city apartments, but this necessitates long walks, a mile or two a day, if the dogs are to be kept in first-class shape.

Once you decide that the Irish Setter is the dog for you, how do you go about choosing the right one, when you are faced with a group of Irish puppies at the kennels? Your first interest should be in obtaining a healthy animal, Try to select the one that’s the most active and aggressive. If the puppies have just been fed and are sleepy, wait a while before making your selection. Check the dog’s ,eyes and ears for any puslike discharge, and pass him over if his eyes or ears are running. A running nose or a very dry nose can also be a danger sign in a young puppy. Look at his teeth and gums and make sure they are not bleeding. If the puppy is having a bowel movement, it should not be watery.

Avoid a puppy that is thick-set, that has bow legs, a flat skull or large, widely set eyes. You can’t tell much about the dog’s ultimate color, but if the puppy’s coat is very light or dead-looking, or if there are bare spots, better pass him up. As you look the puppies over, compare them as well as you can with the ideal adult dog described in the standard.

It is always wise to make your purchase subject to the approval of a veterinarian. The seller will usually allow you eight hours in which to take the puppy to a vet to have his health checked. Arrive at a clear agreement with the seller on what happens if the vet rejects the puppy. It should be understood whether rejection means you get your money back or merely the choice of another puppy.

All purebred puppies should have an American Kennel Club registration and a pedigree for at least three generations. Ask to see copies of these, and look for the “Ch.” in the listings of the dog’s parents and grandparents. This denotes dogs that have won their breed championships.

In choosing your puppy, assuming that it comes from healthy, wellbred parents, look for one that is friendly and out-going. The biggest pup in the litter is apt to be somewhat coarse as a grown dog, while the appealing “poor little runt” may turn out to be a timid shadow-or have a Napoleon complex! If you want a show dog and have no experience in choosing the prospect. His prices will be in accord with the puppies’ expected worth, and he will be honest with you because it is to his own advantage. He wants his good puppies placed in the public eye to reflect glory on him and to attract future buyers.

If you are interested in showing your dog, it is a good idea to attend a dog show or two in your locale before buying your future entry. Watch the judging and ask exhibitors for information, some of them will probably have young stock for sale.

The puppy should have a bright eye, without too much haw, or inner eyelid, showing in the corner. The head should be long, with dark eye, the body long, with well-sprung ribs. Short legs should be set well under the brisket, or chest, and the back should be neither sway nor roach (or arched). The tail should be long and tapered. In the Smooth, richness of coloring is desirable; the Long-haired should have a flat-lying coat with plenty of feathering on the legs and tail, and the hair on the ears should extend well below the tips. The puppy’s coat should give promise of fulfilling these requirements. The Wire-haired’s coat should be rough and hard.

Although the Dachshund puppy may wobble clumsily when it moves, it should be able with coaxing to step out briskly and put one foot in front of the other instead of meandering or crossing in front of itself. The puppy should be lively and scamper with its littermates instead of sitting alone all the time.

Now that you have paid your money and made your choice, you are ready to depart with puppy, papers and instructions. Make sure that you know its feeding routine, and take along some of the same kind of food if you have not already bought some. It is best to make any changes in diet gradually so as not to upset digestion. If the puppy is not fed immediately before leaving, it should ride comfortably in your lap. Take along a towel or newspaper just in case, however.

You have now got your puppy home, and this artie is devoted to the problem of correct management of your new acquisition. First and foremost, that an eight-weeks puppy is a tender plant, more so in mind than in body, and should be treated accordingly. It must be remembered that the uprooting from its home - the only home it knows - and the introduction to entirely strange people and surroundings will come as a shock to its immature mind. You must be very quiet with it, and ensure that other members of the household are the same. Young children will be overjoyed at sight of the new arrival and will want to dash at it and pick it up and cuddle it. Don’t let them do so; this very natural demonstration will only fill it with alarm which it may take some time to dispel.

It is better that one person only shall deal with it at first; then, when it has gained confidence others can be introduced, all speaking to it quietly, almost in a whisper. Every young animal responds better to quiet than noisy treatment. The youngster will be tired after its journey, so do not keep up the baby worship for long, but give it a light feed and put it away in its box or basket where it is going to sleep. It will cry during the first night: you can make up your mind to that. But do not go to it; if you once start this it will call out whenever it fancies something, and you will get no peace. The best place for the puppy is a fairly warm room or outhouse where it will not be disturbed, and with a floor suitable for cleaning “messes”. See that it has a bowl of clean water and that it does not have a jump down from the box to the floor. Continual jumping is liable to cause loose elbows which will spoil its appearance in later life. You will no doubt have obtained information from the breeder as to its feeding; I suggest you continue along the same lines, at least to start. .

House-training will be your first worry; but you will get it over reasonably quickly if you decide to make it a full time job for a couple of weeks or so. Time you spend now will be saved later on. You have a big responsibility towards this puppy; you should get inside its mind and realize that it is very innocent. Do not be impatient when it does wrong - which it frequently will - but chide it gently for its sins, rewarding its right actions with praise. Be firm, kind and patient. And, I repeat, bestow your praise and blame quietly, never doing anything to frighten it. Thus you will get along famously. These are the rules for house-training a puppy:

1) Put it outside at frequent intervals, staying with it till it has done what was wanted. Then praise it as it comes in.
2) Put it out after every meal.
3) Put it out whenever it wakes up from sleep.
4) Put it out as late as possible at night and early in the morning.

Before very long the puppy will indicate, by getting restless or going to the door, when it wants to go out. A young puppy cannot go for long periods without relieving itself; you must expect some mistakes. Even this difficulty is often got over by providing a shallow tray covered with soil or sawdust and teaching it to use this. You can help him by putting a little of the puppy’s soilings on the tray to give it a start. This is a usual practice of those with home with little or no yard.

A puppy’s limbs, like a human baby’s, cannot be expected to sustain the weight of their owner for hours at a time. The bones are soft, the muscles flabby. It is therefore essential that it is not allowed to over exert its body in any way. So let it exercise itself; it will rest when it has had enough. But, if the weather is cold or it comes on to rain you must bring it in. Do not, on any account, let it play with an older dog; the older dog will keep up the game for very much longer than is good for the pup. This is one of the worst mistakes you can make. Chewing the carpets or anything else it can get its teeth into is a favorite pastime; something to be sternly discouraged. The best antidote is an old silk stocking knotted up, or a raw marrow bone to play with. This will keep it amused for hours and will save any amount of wear and tear. One can buy an imitation bone made of rubber; but I always think this is a poor substitute for the real thing, which is a lot better for the teeth. You can usually get a real bone from your local butcher for little or no charge.

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As your puppy grows you will naturally be feeding accordingly, keeping it in nice plump condition, yet not too heavy. Do not be afraid to adjust the amount of food from time to time; if you find you are overdoing it, do not hesitate to make a temporary reduction.

Exercising and lead training now come in for attention. Until the puppy reaches the age of about four months it is better not introduced to the lead. Some can start lead training earlier, and if one is careful there is no harm done. It is not everybody that has a garden or plot where it can run about and exercise itself; but if one has, it is all the better for the pup. If not, it can be put on a lead at three months if necessary. A trial run the night before is best. Begin by letting it wear a collar for a few minutes every day so that it will get accustomed to it. All puppies resent a collar at first and will make all sorts of efforts to get it off. When the collar no longer bothers it you can start real lead training. Very short lessons, only a few minutes at first; and be patient. The first two sessions can consist of merely holding the lead a foot away from the collar so that it gets used to restraint. All the time you must speak to it kindly, encouraging it to forget its fears. At the end of each lesson give it a treat and make a fuss of it.

The next lesson you can get him moving about. But make haste slowly; he will soon find out what you want him to do and what the lead is for. At four months you can begin teaching him how he should really behave on the lead. There is no more pitiable sight than that of a dog straining on the lead all the time, pulling its owner’s arms out, and being thoroughly naughty. Put the dog on one side and hold the lead in that hand. In your other hand you can carry a folded newspaper or a leafy switch, Now walk forward. He is sure to run on in front, which you will stop by giving him a tap on the nose, at the same time saying “Heel”. Always use the same word for the one command, so as not to confuse him; and don’t talk to him as you would to a child, for he doesn’t know English. But he will soon learn the difference between sounds and associate them with what he is expected to do. If, on the other hand, he hangs back, then you must encourage him by words of endearment, coupled with a slight jerk of the lead, to come up to you, When he reacts correctly lean down and give him a friendly pat. Scold him when he does wrong, praise him when he does right; this is the way to teach the canine subject.

Hopefully you have acquired a puppy with a good temperament; bold, but not too aggressive. It should be borne in mind, however, that a temperament can be ruined by wrong treatment. It is essential that a puppy should be enabled to get out and about to see the world and all the strange sights and sounds it will have to meet with. This is where care is needed to comfort it from any bad outbursts such as the big truck which drives by, or the sight of a freight train. You can do a lot of this sort of thing after it has had it’s immunization shots; and even before if you never put it down in public places nor let it contact other dogs. The immunization is carried out by a veterinarian at about three and a half months. Before this essential treatment you can take your puppy out in the car, carry him under your arm. This is splendid training for him and will give him confidence. A dog likes to be talked to, and a puppy likes to be cuddled sometimes. He will repay you for your affection, which he will return in full measure. When you have to scold him, take him by the loose skin at the side of the head, put your face close to his, and scold him. Also; keep his nails short. If allowed to grow long they will tend to spread the feet. Dew claws, if left on, should be cut back at the same time.